Pavones was first settled by non-indigenous people only 30 years ago,
when the Costa Rican government opened up the area as ‘tierra libre”-
free land. Access was via foot trails through the mountains, or by boat.
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Luz Marina Martinez, who arrived in 1976, says, “Pavones covered with
forest then, and there were so many animals. Only a few families lived
here. Everyone lived in ranchos (thatched-roof houses). We grew all of
our own food, and cooked on a wood fire. We had to keep the fire going
day and night, to keep away the jaguars and other animals. The fish were
so unafraid, they would swim right up to you, and the kids would kill
them with a machete! If someone needed a doctor, they had to travel 4
hours on horseback.”
The legendary Pavones wave was discovered by surfers flying over the
area in a small plane, and in 1978 the first “gringos” came to buy land.
“When the gringos came, everything changed,” Luz Marina stated. “They
bought land, and paid good wages to anyone who wanted to work. Everyone
was working!”
The road to Comte was begun, and bridges put in. A little store
opened up, and people began buying more of their food. The Cantina was
built, with rooms for the few hard-core surfers who made the journey.
Beans and rice was the “daily special”.
Gradually the road improved. More surfers and nature-lovers arrived,
as the famous “Pavones bus” began its career. The major mode of
transportation turned from horseback to bicycles. The economy shifted
from agriculture to tourism.
Electricity reached Pavones in 1995, and with it, change accelerated.
Modern appliances! Women travelers! Gourmet food! email & wavefax, &
direct TV...
Fortunately for Pavones, its very remoteness has slowed development,
and its natural, unspoiled feeling has been preserved. Conservation
awareness arrived in the nick of time. Reforestation & wildlife
conservation projects have been introduced, along with community beach
clean-ups. The community is thriving, with an interesting mix of many
nationalities.
And so we arrive at 2001, in Pavones.
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