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US: Costa Rica: Pavones print article

 
Places to Eat Places to Stay Things to Do Surf Shops




South Africa has J-Bay, Indonesia has G-Land, Australia has Kirra, Europe has Mundaka, California has Rincon, and Costa Rica -- god bless it's Tico heart -- has Pavones. It's been called the longest left pointbreak in the world, and though Chicama in Peru probably holds that distinction, a good wave at Pavones works your legs more than an hour on any bloody stairmaster ever would. Rides of three minutes are possible on a solid south swell -- and that's three minutes of full-on, down-the-line, zero-cutback surfing. It's the kind of wave that -- especially if you're used to surfing beachbreaks -- will expand your whole scope of riding waves. Your bottom turns are extended 30 yards and top turns can last longer than some TV commercials.

The top of the point is west of the rivermouth, and acts as the main takeoff zone. You get three or four semi-bowly sections where you can do a few carves; as you approach the rivermouth, the wave speeds up and (depending on the tide) can get super hollow, so you need to start tucking and pumping and going as fast as your little board'll carry you; after you pass the rivermouth it slows down again for a bit before tapering perfectly into the bay past the Cantina, where beer-drinkers can heckle you as your legs give out, almost a mile later. Then you step out onto the sand and slog back up the point for more punishment.


NEARBY SPOTS
There are a couple quirky reefbreaks a few miles south that pick up a bit more swell, and across the bay, Matapalo has a series of pointbreaks.

Best tide: when it's smaller, it needs a higher tide to link up; once it's a few feet overhead, low tide is better and hollower.
Best swell direction: south
Best size: head-high to double overhead
Best wind: north/northeast
Bottom: sand and rock
Ability level: beginner to advanced


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Places to stay
The best place to stay is at The Cantina, since it is so close to the beach and has great food and lodging.

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Things to do
Eating a Dos Pinos ice cream bar in the shade of the mini Mercado can liven up the slowest sweltering afternoon. If it's really flat, you can hike around south of the point and look for crazy wildlife, of which there's plenty. You could also ask around at the little boat place at the foot of the point to go fishing or just a cruise around the bay. Pavones is a really good place to catch up on your reading.


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Surf Shops
Nope. A few local guys might do ding repair (depending on resin availability of course), and you could probably buy a used board off a broke and/or departing traveler, but there's no Val Surf here. Bring your own.

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